One of my very favorite berries to grow has to be ann yellow raspberries. Although you dont see these in the stores much or even at the farmers markets, and if you are lucky enough to find these they demand quite the price. I would say really the only draw back I can think of is they are not an aggressive raspberries. This isn’t a problem if they are planted alone, but If they are planted around other raspberries like I have mine, they can be “bullied” by the other raspberries and eventually the others will take over.
Now the the good part, Ann has a flavor profile that tops any raspberry I have ever had. The flavor is a honey like taste with definite notes of peaches or apricot and maybe even some pineapple. Ann truly tops them all on flavor. Another massive positive aspect of Ann is these are primocane berries. A primocane produces berries twice a year, the first crop is on the end of the cane and then later in the season there is another largest harvest on the bottom 2/3s of the cane. I really am surprised these are not more widely grown.
Key Features of Ann Yellow:
| Feature | Anne Yellow Raspberry |
|---|---|
| Berry Color | Golden yellow to light apricot |
| Flavor | Exceptionally sweet, mild, low acidity with hints of honey and apricot |
| Berry Size | Large (one of the largest yellow raspberry varieties) |
| Fruit Texture | Firm, juicy, good for fresh eating |
| Bearing Type | Primocane (everbearing); can also produce a smaller summer crop on overwintered canes |
| Harvest Season | Late summer through fall (approximately August–October); possible early summer crop in mild climates |
| Productivity | High yields with proper care |
| Plant Height | About 3–5 ft (0.9–1.5 m) |
| Hardiness Zones | USDA Zones 4–9 |
| Sun Requirement | Full sun (best yields); tolerates light shade |
| Soil Preference | Well-drained, fertile, slightly acidic soil |
| Pollination | Self-fertile |
| Best Uses | Fresh eating, desserts, jams, fruit salads, freezing |
| Disease Resistance | Good overall vigor; benefits from good airflow and standard raspberry care |
| Canes | Upright with sparse to moderate thorns (reports vary by source and growing conditions) |
| Wildlife Attraction | Flowers attract pollinators; ripe fruit attracts birds |
| Special Advantages | Unique golden color, outstanding sweetness, extended harvest season, excellent fresh flavor, highly ornamental in the garden |
Highlights
- One of the sweetest raspberry varieties available.
- Golden berries are less acidic than red raspberries.
- Produces fruit on first-year canes, making pruning simple.
- Frequently regarded as one of the best-flavored yellow raspberries for home gardens and fresh eating.
Best uses for these unusual berries
| Rank | Best Use | Why Anne Excels |
|---|---|---|
| 1. Fresh Eating | Their honey-sweet, almost apricot-like flavor and low acidity make them one of the best raspberries to eat | I think the top the flavor of all over raspberries, and really it isnt even close |
| 2. Jams, Preserves & Fruit Spreads | Due to the sugar content of the berries they make amazing preserves that requires less added sugar . | Their golden color also makes for an attractive, unique jam. |
| 3. Desserts & Baking | Their firm berries hold up well in muffins, pies, tarts, cobblers, fruit salads, cheesecakes, and as toppings for pancakes or yogurt. | The berries are large, firm and difference. They will make a great addition to any dessert. |
Planting Guide
Raspberries and very similar to blackberries in their needs to be planted and grown successfully.
1. Timing
- Best time to plant:
- Early spring (after the danger of frost)
- Late fall (in mild winter climates)
2. Site Selection
- Sunlight: Full sun (at least 6–8 hours daily)
- Soil:
- Well-draining
- Slightly acidic (pH 5.5–6.5)
- Rich in organic matter
3. Spacing
- Between plants: 3–5 feet apart
- Between rows (if planting multiples): 6–8 feet
- You’ll need trellising or support because Triple Crown is semi-erect.
4. Planting Steps
- Dig a hole about twice as wide and deep as the root ball.
- Amend soil with compost or well-rotted manure.
- Set the plant at the same depth it was in the nursery pot.
- Backfill and water thoroughly.
- Mulch 2–4 inches deep around the base (keep it off the crown) to retain moisture and suppress weeds.
Pruning Guide
Proper pruning is key for fruit production, airflow, and disease prevention.
Ann Yellow Growth Habit:
- Produces fruit on both first year (primocanes) and second-year canes (floricanes)
- First-year canes (primocanes) grow vegetatively and produce fruit on tips.
- After fruiting, floricanes die and must be removed
Pruning Timeline
Year-Round Tasks
- Keep canes tied to a trellis or fence to improve airflow and make harvesting easier.
Late Winter/Early Spring (Before Bud Break)
What to do:
- Remove:
- All dead, damaged, or diseased canes
- All old canes that fruited last year (floricanes)
- Thin:
- Leave 4–6 of the healthiest canes per plant
- Tip the remaining primocanes (after fruiting):
- Cut the tips back to 4–5 feet tall to encourage lateral branching (more fruiting sites)
- Shorten lateral branches:
- Prune laterals to about 12–18 inches
Summer (After Harvest)
What to do:
- Immediately remove spent floricanes (the canes that fruited)
- Tie new primocanes to the trellis as they grow
When to Fertilize
- Early Spring (bud break / leaf emergence)
- As soon as new green growth begins, apply the first round of fertilizer.
- This fuels strong cane growth and root activity.
- After Bloom (early fruit set)
- A second, lighter application helps the plant support berry development.
- Optional: Mid-Summer (if plants look weak or soil is sandy)
- If leaves pale or growth slows, a supplemental feeding is okay.
- Stop nitrogen applications by early July (in most regions) so plants harden off before winter.
What Fertilizer to Use
- Balanced fertilizer:
- 10-10-10 (N-P-K) or 20-20-20 works well for general feeding.
- Apply about 5–6 ounces per plant (roughly ½ cup of 10-10-10).
- Organic options:
- Compost + well-rotted manure (applied in early spring as a top-dressing).
- Blood meal or fish emulsion (for nitrogen).
- Bone meal (for phosphorus, root and flower support).
- Kelp meal (for potassium, helps with fruit quality).
- Avoid too much nitrogen:
- Too much will cause long, leafy canes with fewer berries.
How to Apply
- Broadcast evenly around the base of the plant, about 12–18 inches from the crown (avoid dumping fertilizer directly at the crown).
- Lightly scratch into the soil surface or cover with mulch.
- Water in well to move nutrients into the root zone.
Quick Tips
- Keep soil pH between 5.5–6.5 (slightly acidic) for best uptake.
- Mulch (straw, wood chips, pine bark) helps retain moisture and moderates soil nutrients.
- Fertilizer needs vary with soil type—sandy soils may need more frequent, lighter feedings than loamy soils.
Trellis/Support
| Trellis Type | Description |
|---|---|
| T-posts with wire | 2–3 horizontal wires strung between T-posts, spaced about 2–3 ft apart vertically |
| Fence | A garden fence can double as a support |
| Arbor or espalier | For a decorative look in home gardens |
1. T-Trellis
- Posts about 6–8 ft apart with cross arms at the top (like a “T”).
- Wires run horizontally, typically 2–3 on each side.
- Canes are tied to wires to keep them upright and separated.
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2. Two-Wire Trellis
- Simplest option.
- Just two parallel wires stretched between sturdy posts.
- Tie canes to wires as they grow.
Post Wire Post
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3. V-Trellis
- Two posts at an angle form a “V” shape.
- Canes spread outward for better light and air circulation.
- Easier picking and pruning.
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4. Fan Trellis (Garden Style)
- Works well for smaller plantings.
- Canes are tied out in a fan shape against a flat structure or fence.
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Pest control
Raspberries are tough plants, but they can suffer from a few insect pests and diseases that reduce yield and fruit quality. However overall raspberries just like blackberries require very little pest control measures or disease prevention, especially with proper pruning. I may spray my berries once a year if the Japanese beetles overwhelm them.
Common Insect Pests
- Japanese Beetles
- Feed on leaves, leaving them skeletonized.
- Control: Hand-pick into soapy water, use floating row covers, or apply neem oil/pyrethrin sprays in severe cases.
- Aphids
- Cluster on new shoots, sucking sap and spreading viruses.
- Control: Spray with insecticidal soap, neem oil, or encourage ladybugs.
- Spider Mites
- Thrive in hot, dry weather; cause stippling and webbing.
- Control: Hose plants with water to knock them off, apply horticultural oil, maintain humidity.
- Raspberry Crown Borer (can also attack blackberries)
- Larvae bore into canes near the crown, weakening plants.
- Control: Remove and destroy infested canes; beneficial nematodes in soil can help.
- Spotted Wing Drosophila (SWD)
- Tiny fruit flies that lay eggs in ripening berries, causing soft, leaky fruit.
- Control: Harvest promptly, refrigerate fruit immediately, use fine mesh netting, or organic sprays like spinosad.
Disease & Cultural “Pests” to Watch
- Anthracnose / Cane Blight – causes dark lesions on canes.
- Control: Prune out infected canes, improve airflow, and avoid overhead watering.
- Orange Rust (fungus) – bright orange spores on leaves, weakens plants.
- Control: Dig up and destroy infected plants (no cure once established).
- Botrytis (Gray Mold) – affects fruit in wet weather.
- Control: Good spacing, pruning, and picking fruit promptly.
General Pest Management Tips
- Prune correctly: Remove spent floricanes after harvest to reduce overwintering pests.
- Keep rows clean: Mulch to reduce weeds (which harbor pests), and remove fallen fruit.
- Encourage beneficial insects: Plant pollinator-friendly flowers nearby.
- Rotate sprays if needed: Use organic options first (neem, insecticidal soap, spinosad).
Organic
- Neem Oil
- Works on aphids, mites, Japanese beetles, and fungal issues.
- Best used as a preventative or at first sign of pests.
- Insecticidal Soap
- Good for aphids and mites.
- Must contact the insect directly, safe on fruit when used properly.
- Horticultural Oil
- Smothers overwintering pests like mites and scale.
- Apply during dormant or early growth stages.
- Spinosad (organic-approved)
- Effective against spotted wing drosophila (SWD) and other fruit borers.
- Must be reapplied regularly when fruit is ripening.
- Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt)
- A biological control for caterpillars.
- Harmless to pollinators when sprayed in evenings.
Conventional
- Pyrethroids (like permethrin, cyfluthrin, bifenthrin)
- Broad-spectrum, quick knockdown.
- Effective for Japanese beetles, stink bugs, and cane borers.
- Caution: Also kills pollinators and beneficial insects.
- Carbaryl (Sevin)
- Very effective on beetles but highly disruptive to bees/beneficials.
- Usually not recommended unless infestations are severe.
My take
I highly recommend Ann Yellow raspberries for any home gardener. There is just sometime about a fresh raspberries that you don’t get when you purchase any raspberries in the store. Although Ann Yellow doesn’t spread as easy as other raspberries they are still well worth the investment of getting some for your garden. The taste of the berries along but then couple that with them being primocane berries you really should not pass this berry up.
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